Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Dicky Pattern

I bought a copy of Knitters Magazine last January.

They have several patterns for what could only be called dickies. And they showed one of them for a man. Complete with a really dumb hat that sits on the top of your head and leaves your ears bare, and out in the breeze.

After studying their various models, and liking the idea but not the execution, I wrote my own dicky pattern.

So, without further ado, here is the pattern:

Dicky Pattern

About 200+ yards of knitting worsted weight yarn. I've noticed that particularly fat yarn tends to take more yards than a thinner yarn, so you might want to make sure that you have a bit more than 200 yards to be sure. Mine took up almost precisely 200 yards. There was a yard left over.

A 24 inch size 8 needle. You might want a 16 inch needle, too, to get started.

A size 10 needle (of any kind--straight, circular, DP, whatever)

A stitch marker to mark beg and ends of rnds.


The size 8 needle will get me a 4 to 4.5 stitch per inch sample in stockinet stitch depending on the exact "worsted weight" yarn I use. Substitute another size if that doesn't work for you. The rib is very stretchy, and you can probably get away with a size larger or smaller, even if your gauge is exactly the same as mine.

Start Knitting

Cast on 88 stitches, and work around in K2, P2 rib for six to seven inches depending on the neck of the person you're making it for. You've probably noticed people who have long necks and others who seem to have no neck at all. Use some common sense.

If you can't get all the cast-on stitches around a 24 inch circular needle, and you don't want to have to do the first few rows on a 16 inch needle, just turn and work flat for one row and THEN start working circularly. When you darn in the end, you can close the one row space. And when you start working circularly, make sure that you check to see that it isn't twisted on the SECOND round.

At the end of six or seven inches, work an increase round as follows:

*K2, P1, Inc 1, P1, K2, P2* See note below.

Between each inc rnd, work two rnds even in rib as established.

Next inc row: *K2, P3, K2. P1, Inc 1, P1*

Work an inc rnd every third round, increasing in every other Purl section of the rib, making sure the incs don't occur right over the incs in the last inc rnd.

Keep going like this until you have 6 sts in each purl rib and you have finished the two even rnds after the last inc rnd.

Work in K2, P2 ribbing as established for an inch (you'll be adding a K rib in the middle of the P6 section).

Use the size 10 needle to bind off in pattern.

Darn in the ends and you're done.

Note about the incs: place the inc as close to the center of the purl rib as you can. The least obtrusive way I've found to do this is by making one backwards loop cast-on.

This can be worn like a turtleneck, folded over, or in really cold weather, pull it up over the lower half of your face. This works best if you have a hat that you can pull over your ears and the back of the dicky.

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